Italy - July 2023
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  • Florence

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    Santa Maria del Fiore (Our Lady of the Flower), Brunelleschi's Dome, and the Baptistery

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    Main Door of Santa Maria del Fiore

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    Santa Maria del Fiore was begun in 1296, and finished in 1436 with the completion of Filippo Brunelleschi's Dome.

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    Santa Maria del Fiore with Brunelleschi's Dome

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    Inside Santa Maria del Fiore (looking forward, toward the altar)

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    Altar in Santa Maria del Fiore

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    Inside Santa Maria del Fiore (looking backward, toward the main entrance)

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    Stained Glass inside Santa Maria del Fiore

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    Stained Glass inside Santa Maria del Fiore

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    Stained Glass inside Santa Maria del Fiore

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    Fresco of The Last Judgment (begun by Giorgio Vasari - the first art historian - and finished by Federico Zuccari after Vasari's death) on the internal vault of Brunelleschi's Dome. It was painted between 1572 and 1579, over 100 years after completion of the Dome

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    Fresco of The Last Judgment (begun by Giorgio Vasari - the first art historian - and finished by Federico Zuccari after Vasari's death) on the internal vault of Brunelleschi's Dome. It was painted between 1572 and 1579, over 100 years after completion of the Dome

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    Fresco of The Last Judgment (begun by Giorgio Vasari - the first art historian - and finished by Federico Zuccari after Vasari's death) on the internal vault of Brunelleschi's Dome. It was painted between 1572 and 1579, over 100 years after completion of the Dome

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    Fresco of The Last Judgment (begun by Giorgio Vasari - the first art historian - and finished by Federico Zuccari after Vasari's death) on the internal vault of Brunelleschi's Dome. It was painted between 1572 and 1579, over 100 years after completion of the Dome

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    The outside of Brunelleschi's Dome

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    Our first order of business after landing in Florence was to climb the 463 steps to the top of the Dome. At 376 feet, it is nearly the equivalent of a 40-story building!

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    This is where we were standing to get the following four photos

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    Scenes from the top of Brunelleschi's Dome: The dome in the distance is that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, first consecrated in 393 A.D. and rebuilt by Brunelleschi in 1419 (his first project in Florence). As the parish chapel of the Medici family, their principal members are buried there, as is the artist Donatello.

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    View from the top of Brunelleschi's Dome

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    View from the top of Brunelleschi's Dome (Giotto's Bell Tower in the foreground)

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    View from the top of Brunelleschi's Dome (Basilica of Santa Croce)

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    Fresco of The Last Judgment (begun by Giorgio Vasari - the first art historian - and finished by Federico Zuccari after Vasari's death) on the internal vault of Brunelleschi's Dome. It was painted between 1572 and 1579, over 100 years after completion of the Dome

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    Tools used in the construction of the Dome, which is still the largest masonry vault in the world. Brunelleschi was quite an innovator and invented many of the heavy-lifting machines used in its construction.

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    Giotto's Bell Tower is 277.9 feet tall (414 steps, which Jeff climbed). Construction began in 1334, according to the artist Giotto's plan. He died three years later, so his pupil Andrea Pisano, and later Francesco Talenti, finished the bell tower in 1359.

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    Street view from the top of Giotto's Bell Tower

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    Bell at the top of Giotto's Bell Tower

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    The Duomo from the top of Giotto's Bell Tower

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    Overlooking the Baptistery from the top of Giotto's Bell Tower

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    The Baptistery, consecrated in 1059 by Pope Niccolo II. Houses the tomb of the disgraced Antipope John XXIII (by Donatello). The three entryways had bronze doors: South side, Andrea Pisano's Life of the Baptist, north side, Lorenzo Ghiberto's Life of Christ, east side, Michelangelo described as The Gates of Paradise (By Ghiberti). Note: Originals housed in the Opera del Duomo Museum.

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    Giberti's Gates of Paradise took 27 years to complete - 12 years to model and cast, and 15 to chase, gild, and refine. Each side contains five reliefs of scenes from the Old Testament.

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    Archaeological site of the ancient Basilica of Santa Reparata: Below Santa Maria del Fiore are the remains of an ancient basilica, which were brought to light during an archaeological project (1965-1973). The basilica was in use between 5th century to 1379, and its remains include many stunning mosaics and tombs. This grand peacock mosaic symbolizes eternity and resurrection.

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    Ancient Basilica of Santa Reparta

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    Ancient Basilica of Santa Reparta

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    The tomb of Filippo Brunelleschi is tucked away among the ruins of the ancient Basilica of Santa Reparata. Such a humble resting place for a genius of such grand accomplishments.

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    Opera del Duomo Museum: This is a reproduction of Michelangelo's second to last sculpture, a Pieta, which he ended up destroying out of frustration. The figure was later pieced back together and acquired by Cosimo III de' Medici. The face of Nicodemus, one of the men said to have taken Christ's body from the cross, is actually a self-portrait of Michelangelo.

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    Accademia Gallery: Giambologna's plaster model for Rape of the Sabine Women (the marble sculpture is in the Piazza della Signoria)

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    Accademia Gallery: "Deposition" - Begun by Filippino Lippi in 1504 (upper part) and completed by Pietro Perugino in 1507, after Lippi's death

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    Accademia Gallery: The Young Slave (Michelangelo) is the first of four "Slaves" along the walls of the Gallery leading to the David. They were originally intended to decorate the base of the tomb for Pope Julius II.

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    Accademia Gallery: The Awakening Slave (Michelangelo)

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    Accademia Gallery: St. Matthew (Michelangelo)

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    Accademia Gallery: Slaves: Atlas (Michelangelo)

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    Accademia Gallery: The Bearded Slave (Michelangelo)

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    Accademia Gallery: Gallery of the Slaves

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    Accademia Gallery: The David (Michelangelo) is 17 feet tall and weighs over 12,000 pounds

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    Accademia Gallery: The David (Michelangelo): The Carrara marble was considered flawed by other artists who had tried to work on it, including Donatello 50 years before

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    Accademia Gallery: The David (Michelangelo): Michelangelo was given a workshop in the Opera del Duomo and began work September 31, 1501. Michelangelo was 26 years old

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    Accademia Gallery: The David (Michelangelo)

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    Accademia Gallery: The David (Michelangelo)

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    Accademia Gallery: The David (Michelangelo) - The sculpture has been attacked several times throughout history: Debut year (1504), by political protesters throwing rocks (marks still noticeable on the upper back); in 1527, an anti-Medici riot, the left arm was broken in 3 places; 1991, a deranged man by the name of Piero Cannata, attacked the left foot with a hammer he had concealed in his jacket.

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    Accademia Gallery: The David (Michelangelo) - It took four days to move the statue from the cathedral's workshop to its new location at the city hall in the Palazzo dell Signoria, where a commission of 30 Florentine citizens and artists (including Leonardo da Vinci) had decided it should be installed

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    Accademia Gallery: The David (Michelangelo)

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    Accademia Gallery: Tree stump support of The David

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    Accademia Gallery: The David (Michelangelo) was orginally intended to be high up on the buttress of Santa Maria del Fiore, which is why it is said Michelangelo enlarged the head, hands, and feet, as well as drilling the eyes deeper than usual, which would have been played with the light in such a way that it would be tantamount to Hollywood special effects from that height.

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    Accademia Gallery: Nineteenth Century Room filled with plaster casts by Lorenzo Bartolini

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    Santa Maria Novella was originally a convent built between 1279 and 1357 by by Dominican friars. The facade is the oldest of all the churches in Florence.

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    Santa Maria Novella

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    Santa Maria Novella: Adoration of the Magi with Medici family portraits (Sandro Botticelli, c. 1475)

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    Santa Maria Novella

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    Santa Maria Novella

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    Santa Maria Novella

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    Santa Maria Novella

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    Santa Maria Novella

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    Santa Maria Novella

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    Santa Maria Novella

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    Santa Maria Novella

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    Piazza della Signoria: Located between the Duomo and the Arno River, the main square in Florence and has been featured in many movies. The Arnolfo Tower (by architect Arnolfo di Cambio) was constructed in the 14th century. Prisoners awaiting execution were held here, including Cosimo de Medici (who ended up being exiled before rising to power later) and the ill-fated, fanatical Girolamo Savanarola

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    Piazza della Signoria: A replica of the David stands where the original was installed right outside the Palazzo Vecchio (Old Palace), which was the town hall of Florence

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    Piazza della Signoria: Hercules and Cacus (Baccio Bandinelli, 1534) Hercules killed the fire-breathing Cacus for killing his cattle. The statue was unpopular with Florentines, except for the Medici, and criticized by Vasari

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    Piazza della Signoria: In the Loggia dei Lanza you can see the marble version of Giambologna's Rape of the Sabine Women (the plaster model is in the Accademie Gallery)

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    Piazza della Signoria: One of the Medici Lions in the Loggia dei Lanza

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    Piazza della Signoria: Neptune's Fountain (Ammanati, 1565, a student of Michelangelo's - the commission was for the celebration of a Medici marriage) It was unpopular with the Florentines, who called it Il Biacone ("big white dude") and used it as a public toilet. After being vandalized numerous times (the latest in 2005), the original Neptune was taken to the Bargello Museum.

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    Piazza della Signoria: The spot where doomsday preacher Girolamo Savanarola was executed in 1498. Body was burned and ashes tossed into the Arno River. Becasue he ousted the Medicis and establishing a theocracy that required citizens participate in two Bonfire of the Vanities (1497 and 1498 - on this spot) where they were required to burn their "sinful" possessions; chessboards, playing cards, mirrors, perfume, tapestries, paintings, and books.

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    Piazza della Signoria: A horse stops to eat in front of the Palazzo Vecchio

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    Piazza della Signoria: The courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio

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    Piazza della Signoria: The courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio - The Medici Coat of Arms

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    Piazza della Signoria: The courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio

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    Piazza della Signoria: The courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio

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    Piazza della Signoria: The courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio

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    Piazza della Signoria: The courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio

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    Piazza della Signoria: The courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio

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    Piazza della Signoria: The courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio - Anna Maria Luisa de' Medici (1667-1743) was the last of the Medicis and is responsible for signing what came to be known as The Family Pact in 1737, where she arranged for the Medici collection of art, books, and other valuables to remain intact and in Florence for eternity.

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    Piazza della Signoria: Salute! Dinner at Rivoire after a long, hot day of sightseeing.

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    Piazza della Signoria: Olive oil sampler with bruschetta at Rivoire

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    Piazza della Signoria: Ravioli and lasagna at Rivoire

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    Piazza della Signoria: Dessert at Rivoire

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    Ponte Vecchio over Arno River, the only bridge that the German army did not destroy in WWII. Upper part of the bridge is the elevation Vasari Corridor (.62-mile), private path Vasari made for the Medicis linking Palazzo Vecchio with the Pitti Palace. The square windows along the top were added by Mussolini for a visit by Hitler; he felt that it was below the Hitler's dignity to stoop down to view the Arno.

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    Medici Chapel of the Princes: Octagonal mausoleum erected between 1604 and 1640 and containing the cenotaphs (empty tombs) of the Medici Grand Dukes. It is covered in semi-precious stones and different colored marble

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    Medici Chapel of the Princes: Octagonal mausoleum erected between 1604 and 1640 and containing the cenotaphs (empty tombs) of the Medici Grand Dukes. It is covered in semi-precious stones and different colored marble

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    Cenotaph of Ferdinando I

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    Cenotaph of Cosimo II

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    Medici Chapel of the Princes: Octagonal mausoleum erected between 1604 and 1640 and containing the cenotaphs (empty tombs) of the Medici Grand Dukes. It is covered in semi-precious stones and different colored marble

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    Medici Chapel of the Princes: Octagonal mausoleum erected between 1604 and 1640 and containing the cenotaphs (empty tombs) of the Medici Grand Dukes. It is covered in semi-precious stones and different colored marble

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    Medici Chapel of the Princes: Octagonal mausoleum erected between 1604 and 1640 and containing the cenotaphs (empty tombs) of the Medici Grand Dukes. It is covered in semi-precious stones and different colored marble

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    Medici Chapel of the Princes: Octagonal mausoleum erected between 1604 and 1640 and containing the cenotaphs (empty tombs) of the Medici Grand Dukes. It is covered in semi-precious stones and different colored marble

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    Medici Chapel of the Princes: View from behind the altar

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    Medici Chapel, Michelangelo's New Sacristy: The combined tomb of Lorenzo the Magnificent and his brother Giuliano, assassinated during Easter Mass (Pazzi Conspiracy) in 1478. Orginally buried separately in the Church of San Lorenzo, moved to this shared grave in 1559. The Madonna and Child in the center by Michelangelo, while the two on the side were completed by Michelangelo's students.

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    Medic Chapel, Michelangelo's New Sacristy: Tomb of Guiliano de' Medici, Duke of Nemours (by Michelangelo)

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    Medici Chapel, Michelangelo's New Sacristy: Tomb of Lorenzo de' Medici, Duke of Urbino (by Michelangelo)

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    Medici Chapel, Michelangelo's New Sacristy: Altar (To the left of the altar is a small room where Michelangelo hid from authorities in 1530 when there was a price on his head for helping rebel "freethinkers" after the sack of Rome in 1527. His charcoal drawings are supposedly still on the walls, but the public is not allowed into the area.)

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    Medici Chapel, Michelangelo's New Sacristy: The rotunda

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    Bronze replica of Michelangelo's David at the top of Piazzale Michelangelo

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    View of Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo

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    Sunset over the Arno (and Ponte Vecchio) as seen from Piazzale Michelangelo

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    Sun setting over Florence, as seen from Piazzale Michelangelo

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    Sunset from Piazzale Michelangelo

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    Uffizi Gallery: East Corridor

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    Uffizi Gallery: East Corridor

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    Uffizi Gallery: Bust of Emperor Nero in luni marble (54-68 CE)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Ognissanti Madonna (Giotto, c. 1306-1310)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Santa Trinita Maesta (Cimabue, 1290-c. 1295)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Rucellai Madonna (Duccio di Boninsegna, 1285)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Madonna of Humility (Masolino, 1415) This painting was stolen during WWII and ended up in Hermann Goring's personal collection. It was recovered in 1954 and entered the Uffizi in 1989.

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    Uffizi Gallery: Madonna and Child (Masaccio, c. 1426)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Portion of the Quaratesi Polyptych (Gentile Da Fabriano, 1425)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Close up of the portion of the Quaratesi Polyptych (Gentile da Fabriano, 1425)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Diptych of the Duchess and Duke of Urbino (Piero della Francesca, c. 1472-1475) The duchess is pale in this painting because it was actually painted post-mortem. As for the duke, he was painted showing only his left eye since he lost the right in a jousting tournament.

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    Uffizi Gallery: Madonna with Child and Two Angels (Filippo Lippi, c. 1465) - Lippi was Botticelli's teacher

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    Uffizi Gallery: Cestello Annunciation (Sandro Botticelli, c. 1489-1490)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Primavera (Allegory of Spring) (Sandro Botticelli, c. 1480-1482 or c. 1477-1478)

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    Uffizi Gallery: The Birth of Venus (Sandro Botticelli, c. 1484) Botticelli used a mixture of diluted egg yolk and varnish to make this painting look more like a fresco.

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    Uffizi Gallery: The Tribune

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    Uffizi Gallery: The plaster of the dome in the octagonal Tribune is inset with over 6,000 seashells from the Indian Ocean, with another 2,500 mother-of-pearl pieces in the drum.

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    Uffizi Gallery: An airplane was added by restorers to the Uffizi ceiling around WWI

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    Uffizi Gallery: Close up of the airplane painted on the East Corridor ceiling

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    Uffizi Gallery: Adoration of the Magi (Leonardo da Vinci, 1481) - The sketched painting was left unfinished when Leonardo left for Milan in 1482

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    Uffizi Gallery: Annunciation (Leonardo da Vinci, 1472 or 1475-1478)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Leonardo's Annunciation was meant to be viewed from the side for proper perspective. Otherwise, the arm of the chair looks like a third leg of Mary, and the trees look oddly tiny.

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    Uffizi Gallery: Guidubaldo da Montefeltro, Duke of Urbino (Raphael, 1506)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Elisabetta Gonzaga, Wife of the Duke of Urbino (Raphael, 1502-1506)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Portrait of Agnolo Doni and Maddalena Strozzi (Raphael, c. 1504-1506) in celebration of their marriage in 1504

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    Uffizi Gallery: The reverse sides of the Doni and Strozzi portraits (attributed to Raphael's eccentric colleage known as The Master of Serumido) - The Flood, Rebirth of Humanity (from Ovid's Metamorphoses)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Doni Tondo (Michelangelo, c. 1506-1508) - The only Michelangelo painting in Florence, it was probably commissioned by the Florentine merchant Agnolo Doni and his wife Maddelena Stozzi (see Raphael portraits of them above) on the occasion of the birth of their daughter Maria in 1507.

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    Uffizi Gallery: Close up of Michelangelo's Doni Tondo

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    Uffizi Gallery: Madonna of the Goldfinch (Raphael, c. 1505-1506)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Venus of Urbino (Titian, 1538)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Judith Beheading Holofernes (Artemisia Gentileschi, 1620-1621) - Artemisia was the first woman admitted to the Academy of Art & Design in Florence

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    Uffizi Gallery: Medusa (Caravaggio, c. 1596-1598)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Bacchus (Caravaggio, c. 1597-1598)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Adoration of the Child (Gerrit Van Honthorst, c. 1619-1620)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Judith and Holofernes (Pieter Paul Rubens, 1626-1634)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Portrait of Marguerite of Lorraine, Duchess of Orleans (Van Dyk, 1634)

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    Uffizi Gallery: The Old Rabbi (a.k.a. Portrait of An Old Man) (Rembrandt, 1665)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Equestrian Portrait of Emperor Charles V (Van Dyk, 1621-1627)

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    Uffizi Gallery: Portrait of a Young Man (Rembrandt, 1634) - Long thought to be a self-portrait

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Completed in 1385, the facade remained plain brown stone until Niccolo Matas, a Jewish man, designed the current facade (1854-1863), working a Star of David into it. He wished to be buried inside, but because he was Jewish, the Church instisted that he instead be buried at the threshold.

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    Dante statue outside the Basilica of Santa Croce

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Altar

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Ceiling

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Stained glass window

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Tomb of Lorenzo Ghiberti (The artist who created the bronze "Gates of Paradise" for the Baptistery)

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Commemorative plaque honoring Guglielmo Marconi, who won a Nobel Prize in 1911 for inventing radio. In 1945, the U.S. Supreme Court ruled that the real inventor was actually Nikola Tesla, however.

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Commemorative plaque honoring Leonardo da Vinci (He is actually buried in the Chapel of Saint-Hubert, Amboise, France)

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Commemorative plaque honoring Enrico Fermi, the creator of the first nuclear reactor (He is actually buried in Oak Wood Cemetery on the south side of Chicago)

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Tomb of Galileo, also contains the remains of his favorite pupil, Viviani, his daughter, Suor Maria Celeste. Considered a heretic, Galileo was buried in what amounts to a closet under the Campanile. 1737, his body was moved to this tomb. 1992 the pope cancelled the condemnation imposed on Galileo in 1633. Tomb is directly across from Michelangelo's.

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Location of Galileo's original tomb (vestry to the Novitiate Chapel, or, Medici Chapel)

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Tomb of Giovanni Battista Niccolini, Italian poet and playwright, who is also said to have come of with the idea of wine labels when his servant's eye sight began to fail, causing the servant to bring the wrong bottles of wine to the table.

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Tomb of Francesco Nori, who died saving Lorenzo the Magnificent from assassination during the Pazzi Conspiracy of 1478 by throwing his body between Lorenzo and Bernardo Bandini's dagger.

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Tomb of Michelangelo (died in Rome on February 18, 1564 and originally laid to rest there). Cosimo I de' Medici wanted to honor him, so instructed Michelangelo's nephew and heir, Lionardo Buonarrati to steal the corpse. Cosimo I hired Vasari to make the tomb, includes three muses representing painting, sculpture, and archictecture.

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: The table on which Michelangelo's body was laid for viewing upon arrival in Florence. It had been 20 days since the maestro's death, but no sign of decay. Note the crucifix by Cimabue in the background. Nearly destroyed in flood of 1966 and a team of hundreds, spending thousands of hours, were able to sift through the silt to reconstruct the paint.

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Centograph (empty tomb) of Dante (His remains are in Ravenna, Italy, where he had been exiled and died in 1321. Once he proved famous, Florence wanted him back, going so far as to try and steal his bones. The bones they got, however, were not his. Expecting the Florentines to pull such a stunt, the Franciscan monks in Ravenna hid them in the wall of their monastery.

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Pulpit (The acoustics make it much easier to hear mass when spoken from this mid-church pulpit rather than the front of the church.)

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Tomb of Niccolo Machiavelli, Italian dipolomat author, historian, philosopher, and diplomat known for his theory that "acquiring a state and maintaining it requires evil means".

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Anunciation (Donatello, c. 1433-1435)

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Tomb of Gioachino Rossini, the Italian composer known for 39 operas, including The Barber of Seville and William Tell Overture.

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Santa Croce Crucifix (Donatello, c. 1406-1408 or c. 1409-1410) Donatello's friend, Filippo Brunelleschi (as in, the Duomo) criticized the piece, saying that Christ's body looked like that of a farmer. Brunelleschi made his own crucifix, which is in Santa Maria Novella.

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: The Legend of the True Cross fresco (Agnolo Gaddi, c. 1388-1393) Tells the story of Christ's cross made from a tree planted over Adam's grave

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: The Legend of the True Cross fresco (Agnolo Gaddi, c. 1388-1393) Tells the story of Christ's cross made from a tree planted over Adam's grave

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: The Legend of the True Cross fresco (Agnolo Gaddi, c. 1388-1393) Tells the story of Christ's cross made from a tree planted over Adam's grave

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: The Legend of the True Cross fresco (Agnolo Gaddi, c. 1388-1393) Tells the story of Christ's cross made from a tree planted over Adam's grave

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: The Legend of the True Cross fresco (Agnolo Gaddi, c. 1388-1393) Tells the story of Christ's cross made from a tree planted over Adam's grave

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: The Legend of the True Cross fresco (Agnolo Gaddi, c. 1388-1393) Tells the story of Christ's cross made from a tree planted over Adam's grave

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: The Legend of the True Cross fresco (Agnolo Gaddi, c. 1388-1393) Tells the story of Christ's cross made from a tree planted over Adam's grave

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: The Legend of the True Cross fresco (Agnolo Gaddi, c. 1388-1393) Tells the story of Christ's cross made from a tree planted over Adam's grave

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: The Legend of the True Cross fresco (Agnolo Gaddi, c. 1388-1393) Tells the story of Christ's cross made from a tree planted over Adam's grave

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: The Legend of the True Cross fresco (Agnolo Gaddi, c. 1388-1393) Tells the story of Christ's cross made from a tree planted over Adam's grave

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: The Legend of the True Cross fresco (Agnolo Gaddi, c. 1388-1393) Tells the story of Christ's cross made from a tree planted over Adam's grave

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Annunciation to the Shepherds (Taddeo Gaddi, c. 1330) Taddeo was Agnolo's father

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Ceiling of the Baroncelli Chapel

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Ceramic bust (According to Dan Harper, our guide, the process for making this particular kind of ceramic, where there blue and white do not run into each other, has been lost over time.

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Outside the Pazzi Chapel, attributed to Brunelleschi (1443 start and overseen until death in 1446). Commissioned by Pazzi family, enemy of Midicis and infamous for the Pazzi Conspiracy of 1478, Lorenzo the Magnificent's brother assassinated. Designed using the "Golden Ratio" of 1:1.618 - a proportionate relationship between the different parts of the building.

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Inside the Pazzi Chapel

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Inside the Pazzi Chapel

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Astrological fresco in the small dome over the chancel in the Pazzi Chapel

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    Even the floor in the Pazzi Chapel is segmented based on the Golden Ratio

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Refectory: Tree of Life and Last Supper (Taddeo Gaddi, c. 1345-1350) The 1966 flood damaged the fresco, which was then detached in one of the boldest restoration efforts to date. It was returned in December of 1968.

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Refectory: Hell (Andrea Orcagna, c. 1345)

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    Basilica of Santa Croce: Refectory: Last Supper (Vasari, 1546-47 - who painted the fresco inside Brunelleschi's Dome and created Vasari Corridor) Painting was also damaged by the 1966 flood. Restoration process took until 2016. It now hangs on a device with a moisture-sensor that will pull it up to the ceiling should it detect any water.

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    Santa Croce Basilica: Cloister: Cypress trees, representing everlasting life, surround a monument to the fallen of WWI in the Park of Rememberance

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    Santa Croce Basilica: Cloister: The Lady with the Lamp - Memorial to Florence Nightingale (Francis William Sargant, 1913) - The founder of modern nursing was actually born in Florence (hence her first name), although she did not spend much time in Italy.

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  • Tuscany

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    It was time to pack up our little black Fiat and drive to the next phase of our Italian adventure: the Borgo di Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany) - View from the window

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany) - Common Mallow (Malva neglecta)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany) - Saint Barnsby's Thistle (Centaurea solstitialis)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany) - Downy Oak (Quercus pubescens)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    There sits our dusty little Fiat!

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany) - Dinner with dear ones!

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany)

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    Scenes from the Borgo de Castelvecchio (Tuscany) - Gelato truck

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    Views from Castello Tricerchi Vineyard & Cellars

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    Views from Castello Tricerchi Vineyard & Cellars

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    Views from Castello Tricerchi Vineyard & Cellars

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    Views from Castello Tricerchi Vineyard & Cellars

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    Views from Castello Tricerchi Vineyard & Cellars

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    Views from Castello Tricerchi Vineyard & Cellars

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  • Rome

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    Rome: The Colosseum, originally called the Flavian Amphitheatre (after the Flavian emperors), was completed in 80 AD and is still the largest standing amphitheatre in the world. It is one of the 7 Wonders of the World.

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    Rome: The Colosseum is made of travertine limestone, tuff (volcanic rock), and brick-faced concrete. It could hold an estimated 50,000-80,000 spectators.

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    Rome: The Colosseum - The Door of Death, through which prisoners who were to be executed entered

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    Our tour guide said it took 8 years to build the Colosseum, and that it was going on 20 to finish the metro station next to it. Some of that has to do with construction crews finding more ruins that must be investigated by archaeologists and researchers.

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    The Colosseum had a giant awning over it, which was controlled by 100 sailors from the imperial fleet.

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    Early on, before the bottom of the Colosseum was built, the bottom area was flooded for mock naval battles.

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    Rome: The Colosseum

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    Ancient restroom facilities inside the Colosseum (bench seating with no privacy)

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    Rome: The Colosseum: One would think the bricks have remained pristine all these years, but the truth is, there are countless names and initials carved all over the Colosseum from many years ago, including those of American soldiers who stayed in the Colosseum in June of 1944 when helping to liberate Italy.

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    Rome: The Arch of Constantine was constructed in 315 AD to commemorate Constantine I's victory over Maxentius in the Battle of Milvian Bridge in 312 AD. Many of the decorative sculptures on it were harvested from other monuments.

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    Rome: The Arch of Constantine: The eight medallions were from Hadrian's time, almost 200 years before. The long horizontal frieze was actually made specifically for the arch and depicts Constantine's army driving Maxentius's troops into the Tiber River.

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    Rome: Palatine Hill: Aqua Claudia, an ancient aquaduct, still stands.

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    Rome: Palatine Hill beneath the Umbrella Pines. Our guide described Palatine Hill as the Hollywood of its time, where the wealthy ancient Romans lived.

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    Rome: Palatine Hill: Stadium of Emperor Domitian (81 AD - 92 AD)

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    Rome: Palatine Hill: Ruins of the imperial palace (92 AD)

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    Rome: Palatine Hill: Ruins of the imperial palace (92 AD)

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    Rome: Palatine Hill: Farnese Gardens (a real-life secret garden started in 1565 by Alessandro Farnese, nephew to Pope Paul III) - Jeff was lucky enought to spot one of the parrots inhabiting the Gardens!

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    Rome: Palatine Hill: Nymphaeum of the Mirrors is a lovely fountain that is part of the Farnese Gardens

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    Views from the top of Palatine Hill (overlooking the Roman Forum)

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    Views from the top of Palatine Hill

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    Views from the top of Palatine Hill

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    Views from the top of Palatine Hill

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    Views from the top of Palatine Hill (Domus Flavia "stadium")

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    Views from the top of Palatine Hill

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    Views from the top of Palatine Hill

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    Views from the top of Palatine Hill (overlooking the Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine, the largest building in the Forum and the design inspiration for NYC's old Penn Station)

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    Roman Forum: The Arch of Titus (81 AD) was the design inspiration for the Arc de Triomphe in Paris (1806)

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    Roman Forum: The House of the Vestals was a 3-story, 50-room palace for the Vestal Virgins, an order of women priests from aristocratic families who served 30-year terms and were responsible for keeping the eternal flame of Vesta lit.

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    Roman Forum: The Temple of Vesta housed the holy fire of Vesta, the goddess of hearth, home, and family. It was believed that as long as it was burning, Rome would be safe and prosperous. After being destroyed and rebuilt many times, it was demolished in 1549 so that its marble could be used in papal churches and palaces.

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    Roman Forum: Temple of Romulus (309 AD) - Named for the young son of emperor Maxentius, Valerius Romulus; the bronze doors are original

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    The Roman Forum was the center of Roman life for centuries. In the background, left to right: Temple of Saturn, Column of Phocas, Temple of Castor and Pollux (twin sons of Zeus and Leta), Arch of Septimus Severus

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    Roman Forum: The Temple of Antoninus and Faustina (141 AD) - Constructed by Emperor Pius as a dedication to his deceased wife, Faustina. Marcus Aurelius added Antoninus to the dedication later.

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    Roman Forum: The Temple of Caesar (dedicated in 29 BC) sits on the site of Julius Caesar's cremation

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    Roman Forum: The Temple of Caesar - Altar where Caesar's ashes were held

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    Translation: Caesar’s body was laid in the Roman Forum where the ancient seat of the Roman power resided. There the Roman people gathered tables, chairs and any other type of wood that they found. They lit the fire and all the people witnessed the burning of the fire during the night. Here they built an altar and then a temple to the same Caesar, in which he is now honored as a god.

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    Roman Forum

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    Rome: The Victor Emmanuel II National Monument was built between 1885 and 1935 to honor the first king of a unified Italy. It is also referred to as the Wedding Cake.

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    Rome: The Pantheon was a former Roman temple, which was converted to a Catholic Church in 609 AD. The oculus (hole in the ceiling) is 142 feet in diameter, and sits 142 feet from the floor. It is the only source of light and while open to the elements, the floor is slightly slanted with inconspicuous holes that allow for draining of any water that happens to fall in.

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    Rome: Oculus of the Pantheon

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    Rome: Inside the Pantheon

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    Rome: Inside the Pantheon

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    Rome: Inside the Pantheon

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    Rome: Inside the Pantheon

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    Rome: Inside the Pantheon

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    Rome: Inside the Pantheon: Tomb of Raeffaello Sanzio ("Raphael') (1483-1520)

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    Rome: Outside the Pantheon

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    Rome: Outside the Pantheon

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    Rome: I threw this coin in the Trevi Fountain for my friend Vicki, whose trip to Italy was interrupted in 2020 by Covid-19. According to legend, tossing one coin in the fountain means a return to Rome (my wish for Vicki); two coins means a love affair (I'm happily married, so thought I'd pass on that one); a third coin means a wedding (again, I have that covered!).

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    Rome: The Trevi Fountain

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    Rome: The Spanish Steps are considered the widest staircase in Europe and lead up to the French church of the Santissima Trinita dei Monti. They are only referred to as the Spanish Steps in English and the term was most likely coined by poet John Keats, who lived (and died) in a house adjacent to the steps. The fountain in the foreground is by Pietro Bernini.

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    Rome: The Keats-Shelley House is now a museum commemorating English Romantic poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley.

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    Rome: The Palace of Justice is the seat of the Supreme Court of Cassation and the Judicial Public Library of Italy.

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    Rome: Castel Sant' Angelo was commissioned by Holy Roman Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and his family. It was later used by various popes as a fortress when they came under attack (there is an elevated brick corridor linking it to the Vatican). It is currently a museum.

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    Rome: The Tiber River (St. Peter's Basilica is in the background)

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    Rome: St. Peter's Square

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    Rome: St. Peter's Square

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica (View up to where the pope stands)

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica: The Equestrian Statue of Charlemagne (Agostino Cornacchini, 1725)

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica

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    Michelangelo's Pieta - In 1972, Laszlo Toth, attacked the sculpture, saying "I am Jesus". Damaged the Madonna's nose, eye lids, and left arm with 12 hammer blows. After an "integral restoration", no traces of the restoration exist to naked eyes. Ten months to complete and protected by bulletproof glass. Michelangelo completed at age 24, the only work he signed.

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    Michelangelo's Pieta

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    Michelangelo's Pieta

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    Michelangelo's hurried signature across the Madonna's sash

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica: Getting ready to climb the 320 steps to the top of Michelangelo's Dome!

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica: Inside the dome

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica: View from the top of the dome, inside the basilica

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica: Mosaics inside the dome

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    Rome: St. Peter's Basilica: Mosaics inside the dome

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    View from the top of St. Peter's Dome: St. Peter's Square

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    View from the top of St. Peter's Dome: The Governor's Palace (seat of the Pontifical Commission for the Vatican City State)

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    View from the top of St. Peter's Dome: The Sistine Chapel is on the lower edge of the photo

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica: Altar of St. Basilius, with the remains of St. Josaphat (1580-1623)

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica: Altar of St. Jerome, with the remains of Blessed Pope John XXIII, known as "the Good Pope" (1881-1963)

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica: The Papal Altar and baldacchino (95 foot canopy) - Only the pope can celebrate mass here. The ancient tomb of St. Peter lies below the altar.

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica: The Confessio is the semicircular space in front of the ancient tomb of St. Peter.

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica: St. Longinus (Bernini, 1635) - Roman centurion said to have pierced the side of Christ, later converting to Christianity

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica: St. Peter (Arnolfo di Cambio, c. 1635) - The toes are nearly worn off from the years of pilgrims touching the foot

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica: Altar of St. Sebastian, with the remains of St. John Paul II (1920-2005)

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica: St. Andrew (Francois Duquesnoy, 1635) - St. Andrew was St. Peter's brother and is said to have been crucified on an X-shaped cross (this statue is at the entrance to the Grottoes)

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica: St. Helen (Andrea Bolgi, 1635) - St. Helen was the mother of Constantine

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica: Cathedra Petri (Altar of the Chair of St. Peter) (Bernini, 1666) - Created to enclose the wooden throne of St. Peter

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    Inside St. Peter's Basilica: Porta Sancta, or Holy Door (from the inside) (Consorti, 1949) - Opened every 25 years for a Holy (or Jubilee) Year. The Pope strikes it with a silver hammer, opening it up to pilgrims. The next Jubilee Year is 2025.

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    The Porta Sancta (Holy Door) from the outside

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    Vatican Museums (with Arnaldo Pomodoro's first version of the sculpture Sphere Within Sphere in front)

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    Vatican Museums: Fontana della Pigna (former Roman fountain)

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    Vatican Museums: Laocoon And His Sons - Unearthed in Rome in 1506, Michelangelo was first on the scene; its influence is noticeable in Christ grouping in The Last Judgment in the Sistine Chapel and the Rebellious and Dying Slaves. Laocoon, high priest of Troy, predicted the Trojan Horse event. Killed by snakes sent by Athena for attempting to foil the Greeks' plan.

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    Vatican Museums: Hall of the Animals set up by Pope Pius VI to create a stone zoo

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    Vatican Museums: Statue of Bacchus in the Circular Hall

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    Vatican Museums: Circular Hall

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    Vatican Museums: Circular Hall

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    Inside the Vatican Museums

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    The Sistine Chapel: Creation of Adam, Creation of Eve, Original Sin and Expulsion from Paradise (Michelangelo, 1508-1512) Michelangelo considered himself a sculptor, not a painter, but acquiesced when Pope Julius II wouldn't take no for an answer.

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    The Sistine Chapel: Creation of Adam, Separation of Earth from the Waters, Creation of the Sun, Moon and Planets, Separation of Light from Darkness (Michelangelo, 1508-1512)

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    The Sistine Chapel: Prophets and Sybils (Michelangelo, 1508-1512)

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    The Sistine Chapel: Prophets and Sybils (Michelangelo, 1508-1512)

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    The Sistine Chapel: Prophets and Sybils (Michelangelo, 1508-1512) Note the 3-D effect of Jonah in the lower part of the photo, an example of Michelangelo becoming more proficient as he neared the end of the project.

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    The Sistine Chapel: The Last Judgment (Michelangelo, 1536-1541)

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